First official game for me!

YEP! It's officially my first game of Malifaux this past Friday 12/27/13!
And by official, I mean not a demo game. I did have one other demo game before this, thanks to our local store's unofficial Henchman.

But, my buddy Chris and I thought we'd give it a go on our own with just the mini-rulebooks in hand.
Perhaps I should have posted this sooner so that all the details would be fresher in my mind, but maybe it's a good thing I waited a few days, because for you the reader, it probably would have been a super long blog post! So, I'll just try to just hit the highlights.

We got off to a SLOW and rocky start, that's for sure. A LOT of time was spent with both of us (as well as the staff from the LGS (Local Gaming Store), with our noses buried in the rule book! But, I'm glad we both pushed through and especially thanks to one staffer (Max) who helped us to understand the basic duel mechanics we were finally starting to PLAY the game and things started to go a lot smoother.

The biggest hurdle we faced at the beginning was something called the "TN".
It's on the cards of the characters... yet after searching the manual high and low, I could not find any description of what this TN stood for - it wasn't mentioned at all in the index. Finally... I discovered it being mentioned on page 10 of the mini-rulebook.

When a model is called on to perform a Simple Duel it will appear in the rules as the model's stats vs a Target Number (TN). The model will flip a card and then add the appropriate stat. If the total equals or exceeds the TN the model succeeds.

I read that paragraph about a 100x and just couldn't wrap my head around the way it was worded.
1) The way it's written, it makes the TN sound as though it ONLY applies to a "Simple Duel." (not the case).
2) We could not figure out WHO was supposed to meet the TN - the attacker, or the defender. In our first encounter, my opponent landed within 1" of Seamus and thus triggered his "Terrifying" ability... So we were confused, if Seamus was supposed to flip and see if he hit the TN, or if the model entering the terrifying area was supposed to flip to see if he avoided the terrifying ability. (we since figured out it's the model entering the terrifying area).
3) Then... I wasn't sure what was supposed to actually happen when Terrifying went off. Again, the word "terrifying" is not listed in the index. (it's on page 55 of mini-rulebook). In fact, even now reading it in the manual I'm a little confused. The manual talks about a "Horror Duel" and "Paralyzing" - but at the bottom of the page on the Terrifying example, it just makes it sound like the attacking model just has to pass the Terrify hurdle, before it can continue to attack... and that if it fails, then it doesn't suffer the "Paralyzing" effects. Hmm.

Moving on... our next hurdle was figuring out the basic mechanics of an attack (melee, spells, etc...). We finally got it (thanks to Max)... at least I think we got it! We were all rather confused in reading the manual as to how casting a spell worked.
recap: I was trying to use a Belle to cast "Lure" on one of the Ortegas. It's worded like this:
(1) Lure (CA 8XM / TN: 12XM / Rst: Wp / Rg:18): description follows...
Lets break down what all that means (As we understand it.. please correct me if I make a mistake).
(I'm using "X" to represent the 'crow' suit... and "M" to represent the 'mask' suit).
• CA - means it's a spell that is "cast".
• 8XM - is the attackers BASE number that's already given to the attacker - meaning you start with either an 8X or an 8M.
• TN: 12XM - this is the goal the ATTACKER must reach for the spell to successfully be cast - meaning that when I flip, I must flip a card that using my base number would be equal to or exceed the 12. (example if I flipped a 5X, then 8X plus 5X = 13XX which would mean the spell goes off.)
• Rst: Wp This stands for "resist" (I think) and the opponents "will power" stat on their card. My opponent then flips his card, and adds his Wp stat to the card. If it's higher than my score, then he successfully defends against the spell and it does not hit.
• Rg: 18 = my target must be within 18" of the casting model.
(I'll skip the part about the Triggers - I posted a separate post about that actually).

Once we had all of that figured out, we then started to actually PLAY the game, and things started to roll much more quickly and smoothly.

All in all, I think we both enjoyed the game, and walked away with a much better understanding of the game mechanics having slogged through it with the manual as opposed to just watching a demo game. I think we both have quite a few more questions, but I'm confident we have the basics down now. I certainly look forward to my next game, and hopefully we'll move things along at a quicker pace.

Lastly... One of the #1 things I walked away from this particular game... you REALLY have to know your own model's cards. Knowing what all they do, is a HUGE advantage to playing a game of malifaux. Reading through the card(s) for the first time while playing the game is challenging to say the least. I don't mean to say that you have to memorize all of your stats, but just knowing what your models do is a BIG help. There are so many little game changing rules on the cards that you must be aware of.

A huge thanks to my opponent Chris, for taking all of that time along with me to help learn this game from the ground up. And while there were certainly times of frustration in understanding the rules, I'm still calling the experience a success and a win - AND I still had FUN playing the game.

One more thing... At this point, I'm still frustrated with how the mini-rulebook is laid out and worded. I'm sure that's the frustration of being a beginner, but I think things could be better worded and better laid out. (for example, it seems like there was a lot of "see page xx, for further explanation"). MOST of all though... I wish more effort was put in regarding the INDEX pages. To leave out KEY game mechanics (like TN) is a big mistake.

Declaring triggers - No sandbagging rule...

Oh boy, I didn't mean to do this, but it looks like I stirred up a bees nest with a recent question. :)

I recently discovered an excellent source of info via a Facebook group known as "A Wyrd Place". I'd link to it, but It's a "private" group, so I'm not sure how linking would work. I found it easily though by searching on Facebook. They all seem like a great group and people are willing to help out a noob like me. I highly recommend you to apply to the group.

So, I posted a question that had me a bit puzzled in regards to "declaring triggers". When I played my first demo game with my (unofficial) henchman, I was under the impression that I had to choose which trigger I was going to "declare" BEFORE my flip of the card. Perhaps I misunderstood the henchman (highly likely). So I posted this question in the Facebook forum and the debate started. At the moment it's gotten about 20+ responses to what I would have thought was an easy question. :)
But it seems it's a bit of sore subject for some.

So, first to clarify... you do NOT declare a trigger BEFORE a flip.
*as someone pointed out in the forum though, she simply says "this attack has a trigger(s)" as a courtesy to the opponent.
Then AFTER the flip, you can decide if you want to have the trigger go into effect, and if so, you "declare it" then.

Apparently the sore spot is that people have gotten into a bad habit of announcing the trigger AFTER the duel has been resolved, at which point, it's not easy to rewind the game play and to double check that the trigger's requirements were satisfied.

I found this comment to be the most helpful:

As a henchman, I am no rules hound (my rulebook is always in hand, I cannot remember rules worth a damn), but I stress proper form. Until everybody is super comfortable with the rules in your group, ... I would suggest declaring specifically which trigger you are getting. Also, no declaration, no trigger effect is how we play it, so nobody gets sandbagged. - Julien

I really like the last comment regarding the "no sandbagging."

Faction and Master explanations...

I just discovered this new (to me) blog that has a really nice explanation of the different factions and different masters in Malifaux. It's approx. a paragraph description each. This should make for a great reference to any beginner who wants to choose their first starter set.
http://joelfaux.blogspot.com/2013/12/the-factions-and-faces-of-malifaux.html

Joel is also on twitter if you are interested: @Joel__Henry

PS> I'll certainly be adding this blog in the sidebar too, as it looks like there is a lot of great information on there. If anyone else has some blog recommendations in relation to Malifaux, please feel free to leave a comment so I can check them out.

Upgrade cards - frustration

Today a buddy of mine and myself are going to attempt a game of Malifaux! We're both beginners so it should be an interesting time... I'm hoping the entire day is not spent just reading the rulebook! :) Still, it should be fun. I'll post an update.

In preparation, last night I was reading through my "redchapel" (aka Seamus) upgrade cards, and I was quite frustrated. I think I had a question about each and every card as to how it was worded. I'm hoping that in game it will start to make more sense. I may have to post in the rules forums to get some clarification on several of these.

Example: "Bag O' Tools"

"After damaging enemey models in (?)2..."
It looks like an "x" symbol in the parenthesis, but I can't quite make it out.

"... Attack actions against Seamus receive -2 to the duel total." - I'm not quite sure what "duel total" is referring to.

"Sweet murder... after damage, immediately kill the target unless it (the model?) discards two cards, or two soulstones."  - Does that mean, even if a model can not use soulstones (like a peon), that they can't use the soulstone option?

"To the pain: After damaging, place a friendly Scheme marker in base contact with this model."
 - THIS model? which one, the targeted model OR Seamus, the one making the attack?

There's more, but that's just one card.

More later, and I'll try to post follow up answers to these.

W.I.P. - Seamus and Madam Sybelle

A couple photos of some "work in progress" painting of Seamus and Madame Sybelle.
It's a love hate relationship with these close-up photos... I love seeing the details, but it also makes the mistakes 10x more noticeable too!
I do like how Madame Sybelle's skin tone turned out. I used a mix of Valejo "Dwarf flesh" with some "Dead Flesh" - still needs a wash for shadows.

FIRE THE LASSORRRSS!!

Front - with a paper protector on top (Click to enlarge)

Back - where you can see the burn marks of the laser

Front again of the 30mm markers.

Well, I'm going to count this experiment as a success, but I did have a little bit higher hopes.

I've been wanting to make something using this service for several years now, but couldn't quite decide what to actually make. The service is called Ponoko. They make custom laser cuts, along with 3d printing. They are actually located in New Zealand, and that was part of the reason why I had not tried them sooner, because it cost an arm and a leg to ship anything from NZ to the USA. Since they have become more popular though, they've opened up a few other laser cutting shops (one in California, and I think one in the UK). So shipping wasn't too bad.

I was also caught a little off guard with this project, because I learned (I think Thursday night), that they were having a 30% off sale for "Black Friday". I figured this was a great time to test the whole thing out, and save a few bucks in the process.

There was a slight learning curve on my end, as to how to actually prepare the files for them. Their website was very helpful with that, but there was one hiccup, because one webpage said to make the lines .01" thick, and they had a tutorial video that said to make them .001" - turns out it was the .01". I was also slightly confused as to how to set up the "etched image" part. I was actually expecting them to be completely black and "burned in", but instead they are much lighter. Still a cool effect, so I'm not really complaining. I'm also glad that at the last minute, I decided to put the dark outline around the skull image.

I'm not sure what to do with the "flip side" - I may either paint them, so you don't see all the burn marks from the laser, or I may make some paper stickers with a nice design. We'll see. They are also approx a 1/4" thick. The edges are  almost black from the burnt MDF board (and they smell like a campfire too).

Anyway, I have a nice set of custom markers now. Overall I'm happy. I *might* make another attempt, and this time use the clear acrylic plastic material. But I'll probably wait for another sale. The cost of these was approx $35. (I'm also going to try to use the background material to make a tray to hold the models in a tournament situation, so it won't go to waste). Oh, and I should mention that the turn-around time was a little over 2 weeks.

Also, the one other shape is for "Warmachine" to use as a melee gauge. I made a total of 5 skull markers (I plan to use these as Corpse tokens), 5 "x" tokens (using the Malifaux font), 7 blank 30mm, 2x 40mm blanks, and one 50mm token. I threw in the three small "sticks" too - they might be used for warmachine too, for measuring blast damage from a 30mm base.

New Package...

If all goes well with FedEx, I should be getting a box today from Wyrd's Black Friday sale. More later...

Update: Yes it did come in via FedEx. Yay! I'm finally able to read the rules now. I picked up the mini-rulebook (among a couple pre-released models as well!). First impressions of the mini-rulebook are that it's nicely printed. Two minor complaints... 1) the margin area in the "gutter" of the book is too small, you have to bend the pages back kinda far in order to read it. I'm hoping this doesn't effect the book in the long term and doesn't make the binding crack and pages fallout. Probably not, but still it's a concern. 2) Some of the small type is hard to read, especially where they reversed it out to white against a dark background. Again, very minor design points.
In going through the book, I decided to add a new "page" to this blog that talks about the glossary of words used. Should make for a good basic reference for myself and other beginners.

Oh, and I also got notice of another package that I ordered has shipped... but it apparently is sent via UPS ground, so probably won't be here for another week or so. I'm excited to see how this one turned out... It was a bit of an experiment really, so my fingers are crossed it works. Hint... it involves LASERS! :)

Seamus and his crew...

(click to enlarge)

Assembly complete! 

Wow, some of these pieces were TINY! But with patience and a steady hand while applying the glue, things generally went together well. I had a slight problem with the "Belle" with the umbrella on the ground. I couldn't find a pose where she felt solid on the base. I ended up putting the bit of cork under the umbrella, in order to get three glue contact points. But now I think she's leaning just a bit too far. I'm not sure yet if I'll decide to live with this, or maybe try to adjust her somehow.

Looking forward to priming these next (probably in black, but I still have not made up my mind). Then taking my time in painting these. Again, so fine details on these models, I want to do the sculpts justice with some nice paint.

Ortega Family - nice paint!

Click to see larger.
via: http://www.coolminiornot.com/329314?browseid=7165769
Just to clarify  - I did not paint these. :)

First Demo Game!

Hooray for getting my first Demo game in yesterday (Thanks Jim!). I can't really offer you any detailed or nuanced battle report, because I was struggling to keep up, and just trying to figure out all that was going on.

I was able to use my Seamus and Copycat models (as I had them built and based but not painted), and then I proxied Sybelle, and the Three Belles (using some warmachine models). I went up against Neverborn's Lilith, along with some tots and a Mature Nephilim (I think).

What made the game difficult for me, was that I still have not had a chance to look at a manual and learn about the rules. I also was unfamiliar with how to read the cards themselves. My teacher of course explained things as we went along, but I'm afraid I lacked any sort of planning ability as it was all so new. That said, I had fun. I liked the dynamics of the game, and learned that the "Victory Points" are the key to the entire game. In fact, it was a great example game, because I was able to kill all of my opponents models, yet I still lost based on VP's. I believe the final score was 11-6.

Fun game, and I can already see the fun factor increased by all the "schemes". I look forward to more games.

Cool Model - Smoke

In today's email announcement, there was also this cool photo of a new model... I believe it's called "Smoke" but it looks similar to the model for "Nothing Beast". {Edit: the gray transparent material is called "Smoke" - the model is from "Nightmare Edition Herald of Obliteration"}. It looks to be a "Special Edition" sculpt (for an expensive $90!) But it is cool looking.

In addition, the email today had a bunch of other announcements for this weekends "Black Friday" sale. Looks like a lot of new sculpts are being made available!

I actually can't recall how I ended up getting this email. I either signed up for it on their website (I can't find the link), or I submitted my email address to them when I signed up to join their Forums.

If you didn't get the email, you can view all the info here on their website.

Rules? Who needs rules?

I do!
One of the frustrations for wanting to jump into Malifaux now, at the start of the new 2nd edition... is the lack of available 2e rule books. Up until today, Wyrd has been silent on why the books are pretty much unavailable. They are out there, don't get me wrong, but they are rare. Some people are also taking advantage of this (aka Capitalism = supply and demand and all that). You can go on Amazon.com right now and purchase this book for $60 plus $6 shipping - BUT the book retail price is $40!
This afternoon though, Wyrd finally broke the silence and has offered up an alternative... you can now purchase a smaller rules handbook for only $15. The book does not contain any of the "fluff" or back stories about the world of Malifaux. It's basically just a collection of the rules for how to play the game. But at this point, I'm in. In honesty, I probably would have purchased both books anyway.

As an fyi... the main 2e book is scheduled to be re-stocked sometime in January. Of course that is not set in stone, but it's the target Wyrd is shooting for. Here's their official statement.

Hopefully soon, I'll be able to get my first game in.

Soft plastic

Short Post. I started assembling the models and discovered that the plastic used is a softer plastic than I'm used to working with (in comparison with Privateer Press). While there is hardly any flash and very little mold lines, there was some minor clean up, and I discovered that you have to be careful when using an Exacto blade. This can also be a positive thing though, because it doesn't take much to clean the lines.

Shadows of Redchapel - unboxing

Just a few comments on the "Shadows of Redchapel" box and packaging...
The artwork is fantastic! The images on the back of the box are taken directly from the 3d sculpting program producing accurate renders of the models. I do have two complaints though regarding the packaging design; There is no description of what's inside the box. I would have liked to see a list of the cards included, as well as confirmation that 6 bases are also included. Second, and most of all (from a beginners point of view) Please Wyrd, put the faction name on the box too.
I also had to laugh at the disclaimer statement, "Some cleaning and assembly may be required before painting." – 'May'? Try using the word "ARE" required.

Plastic:
I was a bit surprised at how TINY the actual parts are... not that it's bad to have tiny parts, just took me a little by surprise. My experience is mostly with Privateer Press' Warmachine/Hordes pieces, which are much more substantial in comparison. Assembling these pieces is going to take a bit more finesse (and possibly a pair of tweezers).
I like how each model is represented clearly on the sprue and grouped together.
The flash is nonexistent! I've never seen sculpts this clean before - well done Wyrd.
There are still some mold lines visible in certain areas (mostly Sybelle), but for the most part they are near-seamless.
The amount of detail on these sculpts are also really well done.
I'm a little concerned with how I'll be attaching these models to the bases. There is not a lot of contact area (just their feet) to provide a surface for glueing. I also plan on using some "Secret Weapon" custom bases, that have a texture to the base - I hope I'm not going to have to pin these tiny parts.

Cards:
Nicely printed. A gloss coating to allow one to use a dry-erase marker directly on the card, but I'm not going to take chances and will sleeve the cards.
1 card for each model: Seamus, Madame Sybelle, Copycat Killer, 3x Rotten Belle's.
6 upgrade cards: Bag O' Tools, Mad Haberdasher, Sinister Reputation, Red Chapel Killer, Not Too Banged Up, Bleeding Tongue.

Bases:
6x 30mm plastic bases. (also with no apparent flashing to trim).

And not mentioned anywhere on the box, but if you need it, there are detailed illustrations on their website that provide assembly instructions: http://www.malifaux.com/instructions.php Though they're pretty straight-forward.

Tokens on the cheap...

A short post - So while I'm not clear yet on the use of tokens in the game of Malifaux, I know they are part of the game. Basically they are tokens used to mark various elements on the gaming table.

One thing I've discovered... the most popular tokens are 30mm in diameter... rather than run out and purchase tokens at this point (there are various places on the web to purchase these token sets), I've found that the average plastic bottle cap (from Soda or Water bottles) are 28mm. I'll be using these for my tokens until I can figure out the best deal for purchasing*. I of course will be upfront with my opponents that they are off in size by 2mm, and for FUN games this shouldn't be an issue.

*My intent is that I'll be designing and making my own tokens at some point down the road using a laser cutter service.

Arsenal Boxes - what are they?

So as I mentioned, I'm new to the world of Malifaux, and one of the things I'm slightly confused over are the "Arsenal Decks". I seem to be getting conflicting information too, which doesn't help. But this is what I've been able to piece together over the past couple of days.

I was initially told that inside of the starter box, there are no "upgrade cards" and that the only way to get these "upgrade cards" is via the arsenal decks. Turns out that's not entirely true.
Inside of the starter box that I just bought called the "Shadows of Redchapel" there are in fact Upgrade Cards. There are 6 upgrade cards: 1) Bag o' tools 2) Mad Haberdasher 3) Sinister Reputation 4) Red Chapel Killer 5) Bleeding Tongue 6) Not too banged up. Note: #5 is specific to Sybelle and #6 can be used with Seamus or Sybelle.

Inside of the Resurrectionists Arsenal Box are a total of 27 Upgrade Cards (including the ones I mentioned above). At this point, I think, there are some additional Upgrade Cards that are ONLY available in the Arsenal Deck - I'm not quite sure on this point.

One other point about the Arsenal Deck that I think is an important one for new players... You don't need this deck to start playing your games with the starter boxes. BUT... if you choose to purchase any of the additional 1.x models, then you will need the new deck, because the cards are different in the 2nd Edition. Example: If I bought a "Punk Zombie" from the old 1.x model, I would need the new "punk zombie" 2.0 card that is available ONLY in the arsenal deck.

If you're lucky enough to have the new 2.0 rulebook, the cards are in the book - well not the cards actual, but images of the cards on the pages. Some are complaining on the web that the type/font is too small on the cards. Some are photocopying the pages of the book and enlarging them, the laminating them to make their own cards. From what I've seen the type is about 6 point, and is readable when you hold the card up close. If you expect to read the card while standing and the card is on the game table, chances are you might have problems reading it.

Lastly... On the front of the Arsenal Boxes are the words: Wave 1. Using my awesome powers of deduction, I assume at some point there will be a "Wave 2". Wave 1 covers the first set of models to be updated for the 2.0 rules. There are more models that are NOT in the Wave 1 Box, that will be updated at a later time. These models are currently under "Beta rules" and not "officially" supported for things like tournaments. For example, the Resurrectionists have a model called "The Drowned" - there is NO card in the wave 1 box for this model. So while you can still purchase the (metal) model, it's still considered a 1.x model and does not have "official" 2.0 stats. Confusing isn't it.

If you see that I've made a mistake or can offer additional information on these Arsenal Decks please leave a comment. Thanks!

Oh, one other point... when I first unwrapped the deck, the outside box was packed extremely tight. Had I not slipped a flat sculpting tool under the flap to open it, I probably would have ripped the box - which is what's happening to other people. Use caution when opening for the first time. I'm also seeing recommendations on the web, to use card protector sleeves on these cards. They do have a nice gloss coating (which you're supposed to be able to use the dry erase markers directly on the cards), but I think I will get the card protectors for myself - they will have to be clear on both sides, since the cards have writing on them on both sides.

What version of Malifaux?

At this time it's a bit confusing for a new player (such as myself) to deal with the different versions of Malifaux. Basically though the "new" version is being called the 2.0 version (or M2E) 2E means "second edition" I think. The game is undergoing the process of being changed from the 1.5 edition into the new 2.0 edition. This includes a new rulebook, as well as new "plastic" models. Most (but not all) of the 1.5 models are metal (known as white metal). Since the old models are being phased out, the chances of finding them at cheaper prices is good. Be warned that you don't want to spend good money on a model only to learn that a new (better looking) model is coming out over the course of the next few months into 2014.

Personally, I LOVE the new model sculpts and prefer them much more over the 1.5 versions. But that being said, not all of the models are out yet. So if it means spending $5-20 for the old versions so you can play with the models you like, then that's the way it goes. Just be sure to do your research first to see when (or if) the models you want are either out already, or will be available shortly.

While this does make things a bit more complicated for a new player, this is a great time to get into the game.

Tip: you can tell a new model is version 2.0 because the box will have the M2E logo on it.

What is Malifaux?

What is Malifaux?

Malifaux is a "miniature tabletop wargame". To put that in layman's terms... they're little toy soldiers that you play a game with. But of course it's much more than that. It's a hobby at its core. A hobby that involves a creative art aspect (building, modding, painting the small miniature figures, as well as making, designing and using terrain pieces for the tabletop game). In addition to the creative building aspect, there is the actual game play itself which involves thought, and strategy (and yes luck). 

You can read more about the game here on wikipedia.

Malifaux is a game designed and built by a company called Wyrd Miniatures (pronounced "Weird"). This is a fairly new company as they started in 2009, but they have carved out a nice niche in the wargaming world, and have gotten to be very popular. 

The basics are that this is a two player game. Each player buys, assembles, then paints his (or her) own models, and brings them to a 3'x3' tabletop. The figures are then like chess pieces that move about the table, and interact with both other figures, and terrain pieces (such as buildings, forests, hills, etc...). Each piece has certain rules that pertain to it (again similar to chess). As well as strategic thinking, this game also relies on luck, in that many of the interactions are controlled by the flipping of a card (though the random odds can be controlled to some degree known as "cheating", which is part of the game).

There are Seven "Factions" in the game, which are basically a theme that surrounds a particular "army". They are:

• The Guild: A sort of lawman in the world of Malifaux (though possibly corrupt). 

• The Arcanists: Individuals who practice magic

• The Resurrectionists: Best described as necromancers or the Undead (zombies!)

• The Neverborn: "native" inhabitants of the Malifaux world (demon like creatures)

• The Outcasts: think mercenaries 

• Ten Thunders: A newer Shadowy faction (similar to the Japanese Yakuza)

• The Gremlins: New to the Second edition as a new faction - little green chaotic monsters

To start a player needs:

• A rulebook - (Approx $40) - though if you know someone who already has a rulebook and can teach you the game this isn't 100% necessary. But it contains all the rules of the game as well as the backstory for the game and characters - not to mention mention the awesome artwork.
• A starter set - also called a "Boxed Set". These usually contain one Master and few other models to get you started. (Approx $40) (note: some of the older version box sets are cheaper than the new 2.0 version - we'll get into that in a minute).

• A Fate Deck - a custom set of playing cards (Approx $8) - You can use a standard deck of cards, but for a beginner player it's easier to use a fate deck. AND the artwork looks really cool!

• Optional - An Arsenal Deck - (Approx $8) - basically a collection of every card available for a paticular faction. I've been told this isn't necessary to have to start playing the game.

One of the hardest things for a new player is to decide which faction they would like to play as. Often times it just comes down to looking at the design and aesthetics of the model(s) and choosing what they like best. Of course, there are some players who like to do a lot of research BEFORE making a decision as to how a particular faction is played (eg: are they known as heavy hitters, or are they known for ranged attacks, do they rely on weapons or magic/spells, Are the known for just having fun, or are they a strong competitive force, etc...)
My personal advice... choose a faction that you like the looks of and have some idea of the back-story (also called "fluff") of the faction. Find a style that you like and start there. There is a good chance that as a beginner you will change your faction later on.
(sidenote: one of the good things that I like about this game is that the cost to enter into this game is relatively cheap (compared to other wargaming companies) - so changing (or adding) other factions at a later time isn't that big of a hit to the wallet.

I've chosen the faction known as "The Resurrectionists" and just bought my first boxed "starter set" yesterday (11.16.13) known as the "Shadows of Redchapel" who is run by the "Master" known as "Seamus".
You generally pick one "Master" or leader of the gang to run. and then based on point levels you build your army/faction from there. Note the terms "Army, Faction, and Crew" are used in Malifaux and are basically interchangeable. 

Beginnings...

The start of a new blog. It's like staring at a blank canvas. What to write... what direction to go... In short, I don't know. The reason I don't know is that I'm a total beginner to the game of Malifaux. I don't have words of wisdom to report, or advanced tactical advice to dish out. Rather I hope to really just document my beginnings into a new game. I've yet to even play a single game yet (though I did watch a demo game last week). But I thought maybe this blog would help other beginners in some way - or if nothing else, I'll look back on this and be able to see all the mistakes I've made in getting started on this new hobby.

Who am I?
Just a person who is starting out with this game. All of my posts (both positive and negative) represent my opinion.

Shout Out
I would also like thank my gaming buddy Chris S. for introducing me to this game and suggesting that I might like it - he's right. I'd also like to thank Jim P. who is taking on the daunting task of introducing everyone at our FLGS (Friendly Local Gaming Store) to the game of Malifaux. He's doing "demo games" for anyone and everyone who is interested in the game with the goal of creating a community in the area to play the game on a regular basis. He's given up a lot of his time to help others learn the game. Also thanking my FLGS (known here as OTB) for carrying and supporting the game.
Of course, my wallet hates you all at this point, but it's all good. :)

Legal mumbo jumbo
I (nor the persons who comment on this blog) am not associated with Malifaux or it's parent company "Wyrd Miniatures" in anyway. This is a fansite and all trademarks and copyrights belong to their respective owners and are used here under the terms of Fair Use as defined in the United States Copyright Doctrine.

First posting: 11.17.13